Starting in Marina Punat - South route

Day 1 (Punat–Rab)

After bureaucratic formalities (check-in, security deposit and tax payment), taking over the boat and briefing with the crew, you can leave the marina with maestral, heading south to the north part of Rab (13 Nm). There you can stop to have a swim in a bay of Krištofor or Planka on the south-west side, the most beautiful cove in the north-west side of the island, Kamporska Draga with a pebble beach, or in a sandy bay near the Supetarska Draga cove behind the islet of Maman. On the first day we recommend you to make an overnight stay in the south-west part of Rab, just before the village of Barbat (11 Nm). There are free moorings at the pier in front of Restaurant Aco, where you will be served excellent and innovative local dishes on prior reservation (tel. 00 385 51 72 15 27).

Day 2 (Rab–Cres–Ilovik)

The morning burin will take you to the south part of Cres (12 Nm), where you can stop and have a swim in one of the bays branching out of Punta Križa – Vrč, Ul, Majiška, Meli and the safest, Kolorat. When maestral sets in, continue to the Illovik channel (10 Nm), where you can secure the boat to one of many buoys or moor at the small pier, except during the prevalence of south winds when the entire pier is completely submerged. Ilovik is also called the island of flowers by the locals, as every single house has its own oleander tree. However, it also prides itself of the 100-year old eucalypt tree on the waterfront. The anchorage area is sheltered by Ilovik on the one side and the islet of Sv. Peter on the other. We recommend taking a stroll among old buildings, where you will find a post office, a grocery store, a bakery and an internet cafe.

Day 3 (Ilovik–Molat–Dugi otok–Kornati–Žut)

After morning errands and shopping, head south-east to the channel between Silba and Olib, which mark the boundary between Kvarner and Dalmatia, and continue to Tovarnjak (17 Nm). There, in the middle of the turquoise water, under the shelter of a pine grove, you can drop anchor at the depth of some 7 meters. With the afternoon maestral you can sail by the island of Sestrunj (8 Nm). There we recommend you to make a stop, especially in the last weekend in July, when the locals organise the famous “Sestrunj night”. The fiesta runs for several days accompanied by music, fish and partying late into the night. The best anchorage and mooring areas are in the Kablin and Dumbočica bays, but only in favourable weather conditions. If you want to continue, head south-east to Knežak, a bay on the island of Iž (8 Nm). You will be provided with free mooring in front of the Knež tavern, one of the best fish restaurants in the entire Zadar archipelago, which will welcome you on prior reservation (tel. 00 385 23 27 81 11). On the other side of the Knežak islet you will also find a few floating buoys, where you can stay overnight, if you don’t feel like dining ashore. The village has a grocery store and a post office. Local morning fishermen often supply the Knež tavern with fresh fish you can buy on the waterfront 50 m away from the pier.

Day 4

Sail south with burin, passing the Lavdara island to your left and a fishing village of Sali on your right, all the way to the southernmost tip of Dugi otok. Continue to the Mala Proversa channel (12 Nm) separating Dugi otok from the Kornati National Park. Once you’re in the channel, you have entered the Telaščica National Park. So, if you decide to secure the boat to a buoy or an anchor, be prepared to pay 10 € / person. You have two options: visit the Mir cove, a saltwater lake and the attractive 100 m high precipitous cliffs in the Telaščica National Park lying north of Proversa or continue further south, towards the famous Kornati islands, where you will be charged some 35 € for a boat of up to 10 m. Or you can do both. The Kornati archipelago comprises 140 islands scattered across no more than 30.000 hectares of sea area, thus representing the most condensed archipelago in the entire Mediterranean region. In 1980 it was declared a national park and placed under protection. Entrance tickets for the Kornati National Park are also available at tourist offices in every major Dalmatian town at approx. 30 % lower price. A hint: If you want to moor in the Kornati National Park, we recommend you to do so in front of one of many regular concession taverns where you will only be charged for your food and drink. Prices are quite steep here, up to 30% higher than in the Kvarner area. Fish in the Kornati archipelago will cost you somewhere between 50 and 70 € / kg. We recommend taverns Mare in Katina (tel. 00 385 98 27 38 73) and Darko in Strižnja (tel. 00 385 98 43 59 88), where you will find a safe mooring for the night or anchor in the cove facing the islet. We recommend you to have a swim in the crystal water of the Lojena cove (8 Nm) on Levernaka. If weather permits, you can also make an overnight stay there – but avoid the area during the prevalence of winds from the third quadrant. With the exception of the ACI marina Piškera (5 Nm), there are no grocery stores in the Kornati islands, so make sure to renew the stocks in the town of Sali on Dugi otok. For those who find the Kornati islands a bit pricey, we recommend the Fešta tavern (tel. 00 385 98 42 52 29) on the neighbouring island of Žut some 7 Nm away from Proversa. The tavern is located just outside the ACI marina and has its own moorings. Don’t forget to take a walk to the top of Žut, where you can enjoy stunning views of the Kornati archipelago.

Day 5 (Kornati–Žut–Sali–Zverinac)

The next day, set out north-west from Žut (or Kornati, depending where you stayed overnight) and stop for a coffee in the nearby village of Sali (9 Nm) on Dugi otok, a popular nautical destination. There you can tie the boat to one of many moorings, fill the water tank against minimum additional charge, withdraw money from an ATM machine and refresh the stocks – perhaps you can still catch the last morning fishermen. If you feel like having an early afternoon swim, anchor off the island of Krknata, 3 Nm north of Sali, or the of Rava (7 Nm). Then continue to the secluded island of Zverinac (12 Nm), which is often “unjustly” left out from sailors’ itinerary. You can stay overnight in the fishing village with the same name, safely moored inside the ferry pier equipped with water and electricity connections (20 € for a boat of up to 12 m). Approach the mooring area through the narrow channel between land and the pier with caution and remember there is only room for 3–4 boats in the harbour. There are a few moorings on the outer side of the pier, but it can be quite rocky due to boats traversing the channel. In the village you will find an excellent restaurant on the waterfront, a small grocery store and a fine footpath leading to the top of the island.

Day 6 (Zverinac–Silba)

In the morning sail north-west to the Zapuntel passage between Molat and Ist and turn towards Silba and Olib (17 Nm). If you feel like having a swim, you can drop anchor in the bay of Južna Slatina on the north side of Olib or just outside the port of Silba, where you will find a few floating buoys and turquoise water over white sandy bottom. When the afternoon maestral sets in, continue to Pag and its capital Novalja. Caution is needed when navigating in the shallows around the cape of Vrtlić, where the depth of water gradually increases further from the shore. There is very little mooring space in Novalja, and even less shelter. The head of the pier is usually filled up by bigger tourist yachts. Smaller vessels with the maximum draught of 1.2 m may anchor in front of Hotel Loža or moor side by side to fishing boats at the east end of the main pier (but only on prior agreement with one of the fishermen). Bigger vessels can anchor in the bay and use the auxiliary boat to get to the shore. ATTENTION: avoid Novalja in the event of predicted storms and approaching cold or warm fronts! Party seekers will not want to miss hanging out on the nearby famous Zrče beach, where party never ends. You can get there by a local taxi. Others who hanker for more serene pleasures may prefer to visit a fine restaurant Starac i more (tel. 00 385 53 66 24 23), named after Hemingway’s famous short story The Old Man and the Sea. Those wanting to stay away from Novalja’s hustle and bustle, anchor off the Straško camp located one mile to the south – but only in fine weather conditions – or continue 3 Nm higher to anchor in the Jadrešnica or Potočnica bay, both with good restaurants. Do not forget to buy a loaf of the famous Pag cheese, a pinch of Pag salt or exquisite Pag lace!

Day 7 (Novalja–Cres–Plavnik–Krk)

After morning errands, head north-west with burin towards the idyllic Krušica bay on the east coast of Cres, where you can drop anchor to have a swim, lunch and enjoy the last day of your holiday. There is also a fine beach on the south side of the Krušija bay on the nearby island of Plavnik, which is just a few miles away from your final stop, the town of Krk. In calm weather you can also make an overnight stay on Plavnik, but just in case make sure to fix the stern line to the shore. If you wish to spend the last day cruising the streets, visit the town Krk lying a few miles further, whose history dates back to the Illyrians and Romans. Some caution will be needed when entering the bay, as mooring in the shallow water just inside the 160 m long jetty may not be safe. The best option is to secure the boat to the head of the pier in front of the hotel (at 2 m depth) or anchor in the north section of the bay. Since this is your last day, you will most probably want to spend it relaxing in town taverns and bars. We recommend visiting the 12^th century cathedral.

Day 8 (Krk–Punat)

In the morning there is only a short sail back to the home marina Punat (4 Nm or so), a stop at the gas station, return of security deposit and handing over the boat in the home charter base.

written by Janez Rupnik, Lenka Mediteran Yachting Club